McKinney Falls State Park
McKinney Falls State Park is a very, very special place. At first glance, you may see the scrub brush, the scraggly juniper trees, the fire ant mounds galore and think to yourself that you have taken this hike in Texas a million times before and quite probably have the scars to prove it. I hope that this is the point that you stumble onto one of the trails along Onion Creek and follow it down to the confluence with Williamson Creek. There is nothing normal about this park. It is positively otherworldly.
You are skipping along trails on what was once a prehistoric beach that formed at the base on the northside of the Pilot Knob volcano complex. This place must have been nuts (approx) 80 million years ago. The air was a mix of gasses and ash, as magma met underground water and exploded outward- it looked like Mordor down in here. I am thankful for the volcanoes' contribution to the geological record, as they helped shape a truly extraordinary place. I am also incredibly thankful that this explosive volcano complex has been dormant for millions of years.
For those of you who don’t need to spend the next hour geeking out over geology (weirdos), let me sum it up. This place looks like the surface of the moon. The volcanic ash is embedded in the limestone and it looks completely amazing. There are stretches of land, particularly towards the lower falls, that you will find it hard to believe exist on this planet.
To further tweak your imagination; the Onion Creek Monster was found not far from the park. This fossilized mosasaur (an aquatic reptile that looks like a cross between a crocodile and a whale, with a huge head and giant teeth) is currently housed in what was the Texas Memorial Museum, now reopened as the Texas Science and Natural History Museum at the University of Texas at Austin. I have sat by the waterfalls at McKinney day-maring over being in that same spot surrounded by spewing volcanoes and hungry, sharp toothed, 30 foot long marine reptiles and I can tell you- I am fairly pleased to not live in the Cretaceous Period. Forget that noise.
The Halloween Floods of 2013 destroyed the Smith Visitor Center as well as some of the trails in the park. Although most of the park has been restored and improved, you can still see signs of that damage and it’s a good reminder to be mindful of the weather when you’re exploring the outdoors in Texas. The Smith Visitor Center, reopened in 2021, is adorable, and worth letting the littles poke around and learn stuff about the park.
The Rockshelter Trail is probably my favorite trail on the map and an easy way to get to the Lower Falls from the Upper Falls. It is very toddlerable.
You will find Old Baldy on this trail. There is much debate as to the actual age of this glorious bald cypress tree. I’ve been told by arborist friends that they expect the tree is over 600 years old and that it is one of the oldest bald cypress trees in this region of Texas. There is no debate that someone was really lazy when naming that tree. I call her Fred because no one can stop me. Just past Old Baldy is the Prehistoric Rock Shelter, where archeologists were able to determine Native Americans were present as early as 500BCE.
Just above the Lower Falls you will find a water crossing that is part of the 2,500 mile, 400+ year old road, El Camino Real de los Tejas. Here you will also find the remnants of Thomas F. McKinney’s gristmill and the ruins of his house, both built in the 1850’s. Let it be known that I absolutely *hate* that the park is named after McKinney. His fortunes were made on the backs of slaves. It was not his kin that donated the land to create the park. We don’t have to forget he existed, but it doesn’t need to bear his name. This area was important and special for many hundreds of years before he acquired it. This park is a treasure and deserves a better namesake.
This park has been making improvements and some areas are considered accessible, allegedly including some trails, some campsites and one of the newly renovated cabins. There is also an all terrain GRIT wheelchair available at the park. You can review details on their accessibility page and speak with park staff for more information.
Of note- I have seen more venomous snakes and “wild” animals in this park than any other. Do not approach any reptiles or animals- give them space and let them do their thing. You’re in their home. Chances are, they won’t mess with you unless you try to mess with them.
This is a great park to bring in a picnic and relax by the water. Reservations are often a necessity- if you want to be spontaneous, you’ll want to do that during the week because this is another park that easily reaches capacity.
Happy Hiking!
Links for More Information:
You can visit https://tmm.utexas.edu/exhibits to learn more about the Onion Creek Monster (mosasaur)
From the Park website: http://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/mckinney-falls
Park Info:
5808 McKinney Falls Parkway
Austin, TX 78744
telephone (512) 243-1643
Entrance Fees
Adult (Day Use): $6 Daily
Child 12 Years and Under: Free
First Published 2014
*Post Updated September 2023